Ah, Eleusina. How much better you are when I’m not a lone American wandering your streets.
I mean, I’m probably still the lone American in the area, let’s not kid ourselves. But at least I’m not wandering the streets by my onesy.
I’m nowhere near ready to declare that I actually enjoy Eleusina (it’s hard to enjoy smoke stacks and steel fences), but my outlook is much better when there are laughs and conversation distracting me during my walks. I’ve also broken out from my limited paths through the city to and from the office, because having other people to walk and explore with extends my comfort zone considerably.
My roommate Konstandina is, like everyone said, incredibly sweet. She and I are sitting outside at an amazing kafe, Cyceon, studying and writing on our computers. I ordered what the Greeks drink by the gallon per diem: kafe frappe. It’s like crack to these people, while I can only handle one, maybe two per day.
I just had a brief mind melt, however, because when I looked at the table to my left I saw a table laden with chips, salsa, and Corona bottles. Where am I again?
Today I met the rest of the group, as well as reunited with a few other girls I had met last year. I finally met the director of the Initiative, Vanghelis, after communicating with him for the past year, and Laura, a mosaic restoration specialist who is quirky and has a fun sense of humor. I met the other students last night when we went out for dinner: Dimitris, who is a graphic designer, and Manti, a digital animation student who is actually from Eleusina. On our way back to the Melissa Hotel and the squeakiest bed I have ever slept in, Dimitris, Konstandina, and I were joined by a dog couple who escorted us from the just outside our restaurant to the door of our hotel. I suppose if you are a stray you really have nothing more pressing to do that escorting people around the city.
This morning I had a nice taste of home, watching CNN over breakfast, if you’d believe it, before we met at the IHC offices and had a quick introduction of everyone involved with the program, then proceeded to the archaeological site which is one block over from the municipal building where the IHC offices are. Here Vanghelis walked us through the site, explaining the different parts and different eras of the site to us. I’d gotten a brief introduction and look at the layout of the site last summer, but this tour was much more comprehensive.
If in Greece, and if at all interested or informed about ancient Greek culture, religion, or archaeology, it would be worth a stop in Eleusina to see the site. It’s wonderfully preserved, a very important site, so well worth the hour or two (or more, if you stop in at the a great kafe like Cyceon). It is unfortunate that people are never informed about this place. Easily and often overshadowed by the other big cheeses of Greek archaeology (Acropolis, Corinth, Delphi, etc.) Eleusis does not have the reputation it deserves. I honestly think that is because the less than appealing surrounding town. If you are trying to lure tourists, words like “industrial” and “petrol refinery” aren’t exactly sparkle words.
Back to the site, and something that personally thrills me: Hadrian has also made his mark at this site, that ever so modest Roman emperor, mostly obvious in the bases of two triumphant arches (because everything about the man was triumphant) that echo their cousin that sits at the entrance of the Olympeion in Athens, and the remnants of a 30+km aqueduct that he built just for the hell of it. Roman restraint, dontcha know.
One of the most interesting bits, to me, was seeing what is proclaimed as the portal into Hades, which rests at the base of the coolest pair of caves carved into the highest point of the site. A thin hole, large enough for a human to squeeze down and that is reported to have foot- and handholds up one side, it sits near the ancient location of one of the few temples to Ploutos, or Hades, in all of Greece. Um…cool.
There is also a lovely view out over the Bay of Salamis, where the Greeks fought the Persians, a battle chronicled by Thucydides which I have read multiple times during my four years as a Classics major. I asked if there had been any underwater excavations in the Bay — hello, shipwrecks. But because it is such a busy port, constantly running export routes, the bay hasn’t been explored. My heart hurts thinking about what is lying down there, just waiting to be discovered. I understand that it is an expensive endeavor, one that very few organizations have the money to fund, but please, some rich, listless benefactor, please write someone a check to get this done. I promise, I will get my diving license and scoop through muck for as long as you will let me.
But I digress.
Back to the site: amid the ruins there are troupes of lounging stray dogs, lazing atop collapsed capitols, under the shades of palms, or greeting visitors at the gate. They’re all filthy, but charmingly so (?).
Everyone in the group, while all Greek, has been really sweet and considerate about trying to speak English while I’m around. They understand and speak the language much better than I can with Greek, but still, I appreciate it. They do however break out into Greek chatter occasionally, especially when excited about the topic. That’s when I sit with a smile on my face and attempt to piece together what little snippets of vocabulary I can catch onto. I’ve realized today, though, that I gather the context more from gestures and pitch of voice, but I’m not ready to admit to my tricks yet. They were teasing me today that I understand the simple phrases and respond without thinking about it. Today I heard the Greek for “Shall we go?” and I stood up from my seat – everyone saw and giggled. Aw well. “Pou pou,” as they would say.
Tomorrow we head back into Athens where we will have a guided tour of the Acropolis and visit the Acropolis Museum. I will probably stay in Athens again, with Dr. Z, or make my way out to north Athens to spend the rest of the weekend with Elena and “Tinos”, her boyfriend — so many options for fun and exploration. Tomorrow is also the Name Day of many of my acquaintances. A name day corresponds to the saint’s day that each person is named after. Tomorrow is St. Helena and St. Constantine (the Byzantine emperors) so anyone whose name stems from those two saints celebrates. That includes my roommate, Konstandina, Elena, Elena’s boyfriend, Konstandinos, Dr. Zacharia’s sister Elena and mother Konstandina. A big party weekend for all of Greece, judging by how many people have these names.
Anyway, right now, it is appealing to explore Athens on Sunday, going to the museums, the Agora, another establishment that Uncle John has recommended, since I’m sure the majority of the rest of my weekends will be filled with isles, Rafina, beaches, etc…darn. I’m not gotten my fill of Athens yet (will I ever?) so this is looking like the most likely possibility.
Now, since I’ve written half an Iliad for today’s entry (not.) I will leave it be and pick up my writing in a few days.
Thank you for reading!
Yassou.
