It’s all Greek to me

I’m sorry, I couldn’t help myself with the pun.  It does, however, quite eloquently describe how I’m feeling right about now.

It is my 3rd day here in Greece, and the heat wave that just so happened to arrive the same day I did is just starting to die down. A breeze, albeit a warm one, has been blowing today, and the temperature is down to a pleasant(?) 88 degrees, rather than yesterday’s 100. I’ve decided on my route of choice to work as well. It takes me down one of the main roads with shops on the homestretch I walk right past the archaeological site, which, from the walkway, looks like a jumble of marble ruins on a hillside, overgrown by dry brush. Yet it demands a kind of awe each time I walk by. I will post pictures of my walk to work at a later time.

Wednesday afternoon was a whirlwind of plans made at the last minute, and while my head is still spinning from the activity, it was a wonderful introduction to my summer in Greece. While Elena, my coworker, and I were at the office working, I talked to Dr. Z who said that she was going to the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a Roman theatre that was built at the foot of the Acropolis, to see a Japanese Noh performance.  I was of course game, so I drove with Elena into Athens and she dropped me off at the Zacharia family’s home in the city.  We took a taxi into the center of town and walked toward the Acropolis through winding streets bordered by incredible homes with Mediterranean shutters and ivy.  We made our way to the pedestrian path that leads up towards the Acropolis and the museum, all the while walking along the Acropolis itself.  I don’t think it’s sunk in yet that I was actually looking at the real deal, the Acropolis I’ve studied and read so much about.

The Odeon is situated at the base of the Acropolis, and the backdrop of the stage is an ancient wall with arches and windows.  The performance was interesting, like nothing I’d ever seen before.  The play was put on as a part of the Athens & Epidaurus Festival which just started and showcases theatre, music, art and “spectacle”.  Apparently Noh theatre is the closest art form to ancient tragedy that exists today and has been practiced since the 14th century.  It was interesting to hear the chanting and mantra-like forms of the theatre and imagine that this was what ancient theatre would have sounded like and been performed.  And what a way to kick off my time in Athens! Imagine, my first day, seeing a play at the base of the Acropolis! Welcome to Greece, indeed.

After the performance, Dr. Zacharia and I met up with her very good friend Eleni (I hope I spelled that right) and got a late meal at an incredible outdoor cafe.  After a rambling walk down the pedestrian way, we worked out way into an open square that reminded me of New Orleans, actually, because of the outdoor cafes and the large trees lit from underneath with lanterns.  I’m not sure what I ate, but it was all incredible.  As you know, I have no problem sampling local fare, and it only consistently pays off for me. White wine and water have never been so refreshing, either. Over the meal, Dr. Z and Eleni went over some necessary vocabulary quickly. For some reason, I can never remember the word for “thank you”. I mean, it’s there, in my head, ready to go, but when I actually have to say it, it comes out as a garbled mess. (It’s pronounced “efharisto” by the way.)  We finished our meal around 1 am (so Mediterranean, I love it) and then took a taxi back to Dr. Z’s place.

I actually slept well that night, probably because I wasn’t being asphyxiated by lack of ventilation (such as I was last night in my apartment…on my “To Buy” list, a fan is #1).  Dr. Zacharia, her father and I went out for a lovely lunch the next day at a restaurant hidden on a street corner not far from their house.  Once again, not sure what I ate, I think it was risotto stuffed tomatoes, but being adventurous paid off yet again.  We talked about family, serving in Africa, museums, my future (of course) and enjoyed a great meal.  My favorite part was probably the “palette cleanser” they served us after our meal.  Think of a melon margarita, where tequila is substituted with lime juice and blended cold, and that should give you an accurate idea. So cool, fresh and just a happy taste, if you can taste happy.

After lunch came my biggest adventure yet.

There was a strike yesterday on the Metro because of issues with the management of the workers.  So, because of this, I had to take a taxi to a bus stop that where the bus to Elefsina stopped.  Dr. Z and her father dropped me off in front of the “Greek Pentagon” as Dr. Z calls it and popped me in a taxi and told the driver where I needed to go.  It’s not uncommon to share taxis in Greece, so when I got in the cab there was already a passenger in the front seat.  She and the driver were listening to the Greece/Nigeria game on the radio, and although I couldn’t understand what was said, I surmised that the Greeks were doing well. Although the ride was long, the ride was only about $12 and dropped me just where I needed to be. I then had 30 minutes to wait for the next bus, and the station had a wonderful view of the Acropolis, so I sat on a wall with a water bottle and enjoyed the view.  I hopped on a bus towards Megara, hoping that it was indeed the correct one, and took a quick ride along the coast to Elefsina.  I only barely recognized my stop in Elefsina, and then found my way directly home, first try. Booya. I was exhausted emotionally and from the heat, but I made my way to the office anyway because I wanted to catch up on some work in the office (which also happens to be the only place I have internet connection).

After an hour or two of work, I stopped on my way home in a cafe to watch some of the France/Mexico WC game, and then stopped in at a store to buy some Mythos beer, pistachios and some more bread.  The solitude, as I predicted, is definitely the most taxing thing that I’m having to deal with right now.  I’ve never lived alone before, and to do so in a place that I’m completely unfamiliar with and that has a different language is challenging.  Combine that with heat exhaustion in my apartment and noisy neighbors, as well as the dregs of jetlag, and I am one unhappy camper. I’m hoping this will get better, that I’ll be able to spend time with the people I work with, but I also know that I need to soldier on and do everyone proud. Next week will be busier and I’ll have more work to do.  I’ll also start exploring more, probably making my way to the water. I think some swimming will rejuvenate me.

Until the next update, here are a few photos to hold you over. Enjoy!

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