Leica C-10

I apologize for how inconsistent I’ve been in my writing. The program has picked up during the past two weeks and after long days of scanning in the sun and registering data on the computer, the last thing I think to do is sit down and blog my heart out. But now I sit here on a warm evening on my Hotel Melissa patio, and I am ready to write.

I feel very accomplished in what I have learned over the past two and a half weeks. For having no prior experience or knowledge of laser scanning and its accompanying software, I have worked my way to a point of comfort with such a new practice. While I am encountering some mind-bending confusion while trying to organize the data this week, I must remind myself that I am, however, able to deal with it all because of my comfort with the basics. And yes, I am patting myself on the back.

For two weeks, an instructor from University of Arkansas’ CAST program (Center for Advanced Spatial Technology) visited Eleusina with the center’s multi-thousand dollar Leica C-10 scanner, affectionately and deferentially dubbed Lulu. After a day’s demonstration inside our classroom in the Eleusina Cultural Center municipal building, we trudged out to the site of Eleusis with the heavy and fragile scanner, its accompanying tripod, and accompanying accouterments. The concept behind scanning is very simple, when broken down to the bare fact that when scanning 360 degrees, the laser bounces out lights quickly and whatever is bounced back to it is then formed into a set of thousands of small points that form specific shapes. These clusters are dubbed cloud points and can then be edited, reformed, etc. depending on what your plans for particular data are. What the scanner cannot see, it will not scan. Therefore, you need to be sure of what you want to show up in each scan and place Lulu accordingly. Because of this, each area of the site that we scanned necessitated seven separate scan locations at the least in order to cover all of the surfaces of interest. I will include a few screen captures of the data that I took while working on different pieces so that you might be able to picture what I’m trying to describe.

With this data, for the next week or so, we will be trying to redesign a map of certain areas of the site, the current maps of which is woefully inaccurate and infuriating when trying to specify where each scan was taken from. We will also be trying to tie in this year’s edited data with last years to come one step closer to an entire scan of the whole site of Eleusis. It’s fun to know that I will have a hand in the final (impressive) product.

Anyway, because each scan can take anywhere from four to 37 minutes, I spent much of my day setting up the scanner and then running and hiding behind walls, columns, and the occasional tree. Because the scanner picks up and inserts into its point clouds everything it can see, and since you do not want an Aubrey standing in the middle of your finished data set, we had to make sure that we were out of Lulu’s line of vision. This became difficult, however, when we were scanning in small areas with little to hide behind. We got wonderfully creative with our games of hide-and-go-seek. When we thought that Lulu was done, we had to carefully sneak up on her, making sure we were always out of her line of vision just in case she was still scanning. There were times that as I was sneaking up behind her, she would suddenly pivot, taking her pictures of the site, and I had to dive toward her blind spots or stand there like a deer in headlights.

When I wasn’t playing Rambo behind eroded columns or sneezing from whatever was growing on the site and assaulting my allergies, I had plenty of time on my hands to thoroughly explore the site. I’m very thankful for this time because I was able to climb into nooks and crannies and explore places I probably would have glossed over on a shorter visit. I waded through waist-high grasses to get to sacred porches or climbed down into cisterns. I found corners of a Roman villa that had plaster still clinging to some of its ancient wall paint, beautiful burnt red and dark golden colors. I sat quietly or napped beside the stray dogs that have assumed the position of temple guards. Through all of this I’ve come to appreciate Eleusis for the jewel that it truly is.

I will write more about personal adventures and such later. For now, some rest and possibly an episode of “Burn Notice”.

scan location model

afternoon naps while waiting for afternoon rain to stop

my favorite wall of the site

Working with Lulu

Roman bath complex — the majority of our scanning project

Photos of Adventures to date

On the Terrace – Rizos Lakovos

Antigone and Polynices – Lytras Nikiforos

Kou Kou – Nikophoros Lytras

Wishbone – Nikolas Gysis

Funeral Composition V – Yannis Moralis

sketch – Yannis Moralis

National Museum pottery

Olympeion (Temple of Olympic Zeus)

View from Eleusina hotel room

Walkabout surprise

Propylaea and Athena Nike

Monastiraki Square

Hill-tone

A few days later, and here I am! I’m sitting outside on my patio at my hotel, listening to some Young MC and composing this brilliant installation. Enjoy.

I spent this past weekend in Athens, which was brilliant. And exhausting. I have no idea how many miles I walked (I’ve tried to sit down and do the math but I scare myself with how the mile count rises).

I rode the Ktel bus into the city with Kostandina and Manti and met the rest of the group at the ticket booth at the Acropolis. As always, the vist was great…I never get enough. My roommate, who is a certified archaeologist (awesome!) gave us all a tour, but it was cool because everyone else had information that we volunteered throughout the course of our visit. Even lil old American me! I didn’t take many pictures because I was with a more professional, not-just-another-group-of-tourists group, but I wasn’t too bothered. I had this calm about it, knowing for certain that I’d be back again to take all the silly uber tourist pictures I wanted. The air was relatively clear so the view across the city was amazing. Also, they’d removed all of the scaffolding on the Athena Nike temple (one of my favorites on the hill) which was a nice bonus as we reached the top. We spent most of our time learning about the Propylea and Erectheion and brushed past the Parthenon, which was nice since you always learn about the Parthenon anyway – it and the Acropolis have almost become synonymous (in the minds of those who don’t know any better). It was nice to mix it up.

After the Acropolis, we went to visit the nice new Acropolis Museum, saw all the pieces you learn about in art history and humanities classes, like the Kritios Boy and Pallas Athena and the Parthenon frieze (the pieces that aren’t in the British Museum). After a quick stroll we ended up, as you always do when walking around with Greeks, at the cafe, enjoying the view and an espresso freddo. Eventually we split ways, and I made my way around the city by myself, visiting Hadrian’s Gate (duh.), I walked an area called Plaka which is winding cobblestone streets with tourist traps, divine food, cute little leather good shops, lovely colors, and city chatter. I made my way to a cafe where I watched the World Cup last summer and settled down in my usual seat. The waiter, Christos, actually recognized me from all my meals of white wine and bread and brought me a plate of stuffed tomatoes (tomates gemistes) and a complimentary ouzo. Holler. The view was incredible: the Acropolis from the Northern side with the Agora below, one of the best in Athens, methinks.

After my meal, I wandered some more. I didn’t really keep track of where I was. I eventually ended up at Syntagma Square with an ice cream in hand, sitting on a bench people watching. After getting my fill of city hubbub, I walked back toward Hadrian’s Arch, just wanting to get away to a little more peace and quiet, to commune with my history crush. The following is an excerpt from my walking travel log that I wrote will sitting looking at the arch: “Why the love for all things Hadrian? Can’t explain it. Admiration of accomplishments, of blatant disregard for all preceding mores, god-like assuredness and therefore immortality and invincibility?” I did a few sketches, took a few people’s photos, and while sitting there I got word from Dr. Z that she had returned and since I was tired and my legs ached and I was no longer in the mood for hustle and bustle I headed to her flat in Mets where I ate some melon, watched a movie, and fell asleep.

Sunday morning I got a taxi to the National Archaeology Museum (once again seeing all the things you learn about in school), but unfortunately only a few of the wings were open due to understaffing. Boo. I walked through those galleries for a while, got to see the burial mask of “Agamemnon”, some amazing golden jewelry, ancient wall paintings, and an incredible bronze statue of a boy riding a horse.  I sat out on the front stairs for a while just enjoying the view and sun, and then caught another taxi to the National Gallery. The taxi driver didn’t understand me when I asked for the Hilton Hotel (which is across from the gallery) but eventually I risked cultural insensitivity and said Hilton like “Hill-tone” and Bam, homeboy understood. Then he teased ME for saying the name incorrectly the rest of the trip. “No, no, it’s not Paris Hil-tin, it is Paris Hill-tone!”  I sat back and let him. Whatever, dude, have your day’s victory over a native English speaker.

Anyway, I wasn’t overly impressed with the gallery because I feel like I missed some of their collection (although I wandered looking to see if I’d missed something), but they did have a few artists’ work that appealed to me, particularly Nikophoros Lytras and Nikolaos Gysis.  There was also an exhibition on Yannis Moralis, a creative artist that I really enjoyed. He spanned many different styles of painting, which I always appreciate – he didn’t play by just one set of rules. I took down a few notes on my favorites so I can look them up later (and share with all y’all), then I headed out and took the long walk back toward Syntagma. My legs were tired and I was starving so I took the Metro to Monastiraki, one of my favorite spots, bought some fresh strawberries from a Sunday fruit stand, bought an iced tea and a gyros, and sat down next to the site of Hadrian’s Library. Perfection.

After eating I explored the site for a bit, which is nestled below the modern street level, the size of a city block. It was Hadrian’s home for collections of the empire’s volumes, as well as the later location of a church and the eventual first floor of a much later political ruler. I stumbled across some remarkable mosaics, was followed around by a stray dog as I explored the columns and marble tiles, and found some lovely little details hidden in the overgrowth. My favorite moment, though, was when I was leaving I looked up at what I thought was just a mark of weathering beside the beautiful pillars. After further inspection, though, I saw that it was actually the last few remnants of an amazing original fresco from when that wall had been a part of a church. Amazing, and to think I almost missed it! Goodness, I love exploring. I had just about reached my legs’ physical limit when I decided it was time to catch the Ktel at Thissio and head back to Eleusina.

This week we start the digital scanning of the site, so I will surely write to you to try my best to explain the process. We’ve been doing a lot of walking around the site, and I’m becoming more and more impressed on the importance and uniqueness of the site. It really is a jewel, and I feel honored to immortalize it.

I’m finding myself on the brink of homesickness, but am trying to fight it off, not letting myself concentrate on what I can’t fix right now. I need to be a big girl and suck it up. Chin up, love, keep calm and put the kafe on, and all that.

No, no…it’s a pit to Hades.

Ah, Eleusina. How much better you are when I’m not a lone American wandering your streets.

I mean, I’m probably still the lone American in the area, let’s not kid ourselves. But at least I’m not wandering the streets by my onesy.

I’m nowhere near ready to declare that I actually enjoy Eleusina (it’s hard to enjoy smoke stacks and steel fences), but my outlook is much better when there are laughs and conversation distracting me during my walks. I’ve also broken out from my limited paths through the city to and from the office, because having other people to walk and explore with extends my comfort zone considerably.

My roommate Konstandina is, like everyone said, incredibly sweet. She and I are sitting outside at an amazing kafe, Cyceon, studying and writing on our computers. I ordered what the Greeks drink by the gallon per diem: kafe frappe. It’s like crack to these people, while I can only handle one, maybe two per day.

I just had a brief mind melt, however, because when I looked at the table to my left I saw a table laden with chips, salsa, and Corona bottles. Where am I again?

Today I met the rest of the group, as well as reunited with a few other girls I had met last year. I finally met the director of the Initiative, Vanghelis, after communicating with him for the past year, and Laura, a mosaic restoration specialist who is quirky and has a fun sense of humor. I met the other students last night when we went out for dinner: Dimitris, who is a graphic designer, and Manti, a digital animation student who is actually from Eleusina. On our way back to the Melissa Hotel and the squeakiest bed I have ever slept in, Dimitris, Konstandina, and I were joined by a dog couple who escorted us from the just outside our restaurant to the door of our hotel. I suppose if you are a stray you really have nothing more pressing to do that escorting people around the city.

This morning I had a nice taste of home, watching CNN over breakfast, if you’d believe it, before we met at the IHC offices and had a quick introduction of everyone involved with the program, then proceeded to the archaeological site which is one block over from the municipal building where the IHC offices are. Here Vanghelis walked us through the site, explaining the different parts and different eras of the site to us. I’d gotten a brief introduction and look at the layout of the site last summer, but this tour was much more comprehensive.

If in Greece, and if at all interested or informed about ancient Greek culture, religion, or archaeology, it would be worth a stop in Eleusina to see the site. It’s wonderfully preserved, a very important site, so well worth the hour or two (or more, if you stop in at the a great kafe like Cyceon). It is unfortunate that people are never informed about this place. Easily and often overshadowed by the other big cheeses of Greek archaeology (Acropolis, Corinth, Delphi, etc.) Eleusis does not have the reputation it deserves. I honestly think that is because the less than appealing surrounding town. If you are trying to lure tourists, words like “industrial” and “petrol refinery” aren’t exactly sparkle words.

Back to the site, and something that personally thrills me: Hadrian has also made his mark at this site, that ever so modest Roman emperor, mostly obvious in the bases of two triumphant arches (because everything about the man was triumphant) that echo their cousin that sits at the entrance of the Olympeion in Athens, and the remnants of a 30+km aqueduct that he built just for the hell of it.  Roman restraint, dontcha know.

One of the most interesting bits, to me, was seeing what is proclaimed as the portal into Hades, which rests at the base of the coolest pair of caves carved into the highest point of the site. A thin hole, large enough for a human to squeeze down and that is reported to have foot- and handholds up one side, it sits near the ancient location of one of the few temples to Ploutos, or Hades, in all of Greece. Um…cool.

There is also a lovely view out over the Bay of Salamis, where the Greeks fought the Persians, a battle chronicled by Thucydides which I have read multiple times during my four years as a Classics major. I asked if there had been any underwater excavations in the Bay — hello, shipwrecks. But because it is such a busy port, constantly running export routes, the bay hasn’t been explored. My heart hurts thinking about what is lying down there, just waiting to be discovered. I understand that it is an expensive endeavor, one that very few organizations have the money to fund, but please, some rich, listless benefactor, please write someone a check to get this done. I promise, I will get my diving license and scoop through muck for as long as you will let me.

But I digress.

Back to the site: amid the ruins there are troupes of lounging stray dogs, lazing atop collapsed capitols, under the shades of palms, or greeting visitors at the gate. They’re all filthy, but charmingly so (?).

Everyone in the group, while all Greek, has been really sweet and considerate about trying to speak English while I’m around. They understand and speak the language much better than I can with Greek, but still, I appreciate it. They do however break out into Greek chatter occasionally, especially when excited about the topic. That’s when I sit with a smile on my face and attempt to piece together what little snippets of vocabulary I can catch onto. I’ve realized today, though, that I gather the context more from gestures and pitch of voice, but I’m not ready to admit to my tricks yet. They were teasing me today that I understand the simple phrases and respond without thinking about it. Today I heard the Greek for “Shall we go?” and I stood up from my seat – everyone saw and giggled. Aw well. “Pou pou,” as they would say.

Tomorrow we head back into Athens where we will have a guided tour of the Acropolis and visit the Acropolis Museum. I will probably stay in Athens again, with Dr. Z, or make my way out to north Athens to spend the rest of the weekend with Elena and “Tinos”, her boyfriend — so many options for fun and exploration. Tomorrow is also the Name Day of many of my acquaintances. A name day corresponds to the saint’s day that each person is named after. Tomorrow is St. Helena and St. Constantine (the Byzantine emperors) so anyone whose name stems from those two saints celebrates. That includes my roommate, Konstandina, Elena, Elena’s boyfriend, Konstandinos, Dr. Zacharia’s sister Elena and mother Konstandina. A big party weekend for all of Greece, judging by how many people have these names.

Anyway, right now, it is appealing to explore Athens on Sunday, going to the museums, the Agora, another establishment that Uncle John has recommended, since I’m sure the majority of the rest of my weekends will be filled with isles, Rafina, beaches, etc…darn. I’m not gotten my fill of Athens yet (will I ever?) so this is looking like the most likely possibility.

Now, since I’ve written half an Iliad for today’s entry (not.) I will leave it be and pick up my writing in a few days.

Thank you for reading!

Yassou.

Scenic Eleusina

I write now from my hotel room in Eleusina at the Melissa Hotel (“melissa” being the Greek word for bee). It has been a rainy day in Attika, a different way to see the cities and landscapes. I’m awaiting my roommate Konstandina to arrive, slowly settling into my Eleusinian abode. Let me catch up on yesterday’s happenings, though:

I woke up feeling surprisingly refreshed after a fitful night’s sleep, and prepared coffee, melon and yogurt for breakfast, which I then took up to the rooftop patio to eat and chat with Dr. Z. The sun was shining, the Acropolis was just in front of me, and I happily enjoyed the amazing Greek melon that always seems to hit the spot. Never have I eaten such wonderful melon.

After cleaning up I walked from Dr. Z’s flat, around the Acropolis, past all the tour buses and tour groups, and around to Thissio, where I met up with Michelle, an Iggy, and her friend, Sarah. I walked them up to a café I like going to, one that has a great view of the Acropolis over the Agora. We enjoyed some lovely frappes, conversation, and a surprise rain shower (thank goodness for covered seating). I walked them down toward Monastiraki because they had some last minute souvenirs to buy, and then sent them on their way to the airport.

Once the girls were off, I took myself on a walk up Ermou toward Syntagma Square. There was some kind of demonstration going on, and not wanting to ruin my perfect game of never encountering tear gas, I walked through the Plaka, out toward my favorite: the Olympeion. It is SO good to walk everywhere again, to have so many things accessible just by a 10-15 minute walk. Perfect. When I reached Mets again, where I was staying with Dr. Z, I was able to rest for a bit (jet lag + miles of walking = le tired Aubrey) and then caught Trevor on Skype Mobile. Happy girl.

I was getting ready to give in fully to my jet lag and call it a night (at 18:45) when I saw a recommendation from my Uncle John for a taverna near Monastiraki, so I got myself dressed and out the door, spurring myself to get out and not be a party pooper. I am so glad I did. I took the same walk around the Acropolis that I made earlier that day, stopping to climb onto the Areopagus and look out over the evening sunlit city, then continued the short distance to Dioskouron, where I enjoyed a Mythos for my uncle and watched the sun set over the Agora. After my beer, I walked back down to Monastiraki, bought one of the best gyros of my life, and then continued home back to Dr. Z’s.

Trying to wake up this morning was like trying to raise the dead. I snoozed my alarm nearly 7 or 8 times until I had to forcibly open my eyelids. I packed up my things quickly, enjoyed a sequel of my first breakfast, and then dragged my suitcases all the way to the Acropolis metro station. Yes, even then, I still love walking everywhere. I was that girl, though, holding up traffic on the thin sidewalks and taking 3-4 steps on the escalators. I was to meet my friend Elena from last summer at a metro stop outside center Athens, where she would pick me up and take me to Eleusina to check in and get settled. When I sent my text letting her know I was leaving, however, my service must have given out because I arrived at the station and she was no where to be found. I waited a few minutes before checking my phone to find that I had completely lost my international service. Thank you, Verizon, for stranding me in a Greek metro stop. Not to panic, though, because I knew, if I had to, I could always make my way back to city centre and be rescued. Instead, though, I asked the ticket lady to use her phone to call Dr. Z’s landline to tell her I had arrived and could not get a hold of Elena. 15 minutes later my friend arrived and zipped me off, through the rain, to good ol’ Eleusina.

Can’t say that I missed the place.

The hotel is much better than I had prepared myself for, and I have every assurance that my fellow students/teacher’s aides are wonderful. Things are already oodles better than last time arrived in Eleusina (I will switch a heat wave and no ventilation for a few drops of rain any day), and I have resolutely decided that I will make these following 30-something days well worth my time and energy. I am going to travel (islands, anyone?), explore more of Athens, learn a new skill set during the classes and lectures, and make more international friends. Hell, I may even rent a car and explore the Peloponnese, go wild. Although that would require me taping my Jiminy Cricket’s mouth shut and just going for it…but it is in the realm of possibilities.

Tonight, once everyone has checked in, we will go out for dinner to meet-and-greet. So, in the following hour, despite my desire to combat jet lag, I think I owe myself a little nappy nap.

More later!

And we’re back

Here we are again, my first blog entry for many a month. Of course, it’s taken me once again jetting off to Greece to light the fire under me and get me writing again. Currently I’m sitting in the Zurich terminal, which has a distinct lack of comfortable seating, favoring instead ultra-modern, weirdly shaped benches or stools at espresso/beer bars.

I flew from San Diego to Los Angeles, was harried by the Swiss Airlines desk agent at LAX, being chastised for being late and making the airlines hold the flight for me. Perplexed, since I was certain I had at least an hour until the flight time my ticket stated, I hustled all the way through security (the fastest int’l security check I have ever been through, luckily) only to arrive at my gate to find that the flight hadn’t even started boarding yet. Shaking from adrenaline and fighting down the urge to return downstairs and sock the short agent square in his designer Euro trash glasses, I got to call Trevor for our last phone call for a while and then boarded the plane.

As I told my mom, I was assigned a seat next to a burly unibrow, jangling with gold bracelets and assaulting the surrounding air with cologne that would probably smell lovely in moderation. Death. Also, I’ve never felt so wide as when I tried to squeeze myself into the economy seat. Of course, then, the airline does a highlight of the business class features, causing you to raise your fist in angst and curse your limited financial abilities. Fully fold out beds? How dare you, Swiss Airlines. How dare you.

They were forgiven for their attentive and friendly staff and red wine. Not sure what I ate, but isn’t that how it always goes? I watched a bit of that awful movie with Demi’s hubby and NatPortman, and then knocked out for a few hours of fitful airplane sleep. All in all, the ten and a half hour flight passed relatively quickly, which makes me think I got more sleep that I at first suspected. One more leg and then I arrive in Athens, to be greeted by George’s Taxi service and eventually make my way to Dr. Z’s flat.

I’m sitting next to a window in the Zurich terminal, looking out past the airport and onto the amazingly green hills with cute little villages nestled into them. I thought briefly of making a quick excursion out into the city, since it’s only 10 minutes away by the train near the terminal, but I’m having a hard enough time of finding my way around this airport that I’m just as content to sit here listening to the live music being played and keeping my eye on the departures board.

Aspirations for this trip: more time in the water, meet fellow archaeology geeks (which shouldn’t be too hard, since I’m living with the other students in the hotel), get my hands on as much moussaka as I can handle, be brave in new situations, and really sink my teeth into the lectures and field word. There are more, I’m sure, that aren’t coming to mind, but this list seems pretty comprehensive for the time being. I have an hour and fifteen minutes before my flight leaves, and I refuse to pay for internet (although I have no way of contacting the parentals that I’ve made it to Zurich…). Maybe I’ll spend the time figuring out how to get service on my phone, so they won’t kill me for completely leaving them in the dark.

Later:

When I was finally assigned my gate in Zurich, I settled down in the terminal next to a window that just happened to look out over the Swiss Alps. Oh darn.

The flight out to Athens was very very bumpy, but the airline played Tom & Jerry cartoons and a British version of Candid Camera, so I was entertained despite the turbulence. I arrived in Athens just after midnight, collected my baggage, and the exited the terminal looking for a sign with my name on it. No such luck. After searching for a minute, I called the number George’s Taxi had given me and asked where they were, to be met with the question: “Did you make a reservation?” Why yes, I answered, I’ve emailed back and forth with you a few times this past week. I was met with the answer that they were sending out a driver now, and I’d have to wait only 20 minutes. Super.

Finally, Alex arrived, apologizing and saying that he hadn’t know about my reservation. Then he asked me for the address, which I luckily had easily accessible. Gr. We sped to the city and I was dropped off at Dr. Z’s place without incident, where I had a lovely reunion with her, a much needed and enjoyed hot shower, and a comfortable bed.

As I entered the apartment Dr. Z allowed enough time for me to put my bags down and get a glass of water before she hurried me up to the patio on the roof. I stepped out of the doorway and there before me was the illuminated Acropolis, staring at me from over the rooftops of Mets. Welcome to Greece, indeed. This morning we sat up on the patio in our pajamas with coffee and caught up on life and my plans for the coming years, enjoying the sunshine and the company.

I will write more about today, Wednesday 18, later, since it’s only 3:30 pm and there’s so much of the day left. I feel jetlag settling in, which is unfortunate, but expected. Here’s hoping I can bounce back relatively quickly. I think I’ll go doze on the rooftop.

Stay tuned for more, mon ami.

My Day in Ruins

Last Saturday I decided that it was high time I did some exploring in the capital city, and so I packed up for a day of meandering and learning.

My parents were kind enough to book a hotel room in the city for me that night, in order to counter the solitude I’d been experiencing in Elefsina.  Being surrounded by other thousands of tourists was a quick fix to the problem, and as soon as I stepped off the KTel bus at the depot at Thissio, I felt my shoulders relax and my tourist fever flared.

I took a quick taxi ride to the hotel to put my things down and get acquainted with where I would be spending the night.  After escaping my taxi driver, Alex, who promised a fun night out at a music club “with good life moosic and very very good drink. Lots of fun, you will see this,” and charged me too much for a quick taxi ride and then lost all ability to understand my questioning English, I got situated in my 9^th floor room at the Classical Athens Imperial Hotel.  The hotel was situated near the Metaxourgio metro station, right off Karaiskaki Square.

After a quick nap in a lovely air-conditioned room and my first hot shower in nearly a week, I strapped on my sandals and headed out.  It just so happened that one of those tour buses had a stop at Karaiskaki Square, and in a moment of need for interaction with fellow tourists, I hopped on the bus that was pulling up as I walked out of my hotel.  A discounted student rate bought be cheap red earphones, a seat on the upper deck of a tour bus, and two useful maps of the city, not to mentioned a commentated tour of Athens.

My main priority for my day in Athens was of course the Acropolis, so I rode the bus past Thissio, Monastiraki, Kotzia Square, and Sindagma Square (where a 15 minute wait for anyone wishing to join the tour at its beginning afforded valuable people watching time) until we reached the “entrance” to the pedestrian way leading to the Acropolis that is called the Dionyssiou Aeropagitou.  I walked up toward the Acropolis, through winding cobble stoned streets, past trinket shops and outdoor cafes sounding with the clinking of silverware and the mix of multiple languages.  Although I don’t think of cigarette smoke as one of the most scent-ual aromas, I’ve found that the mixture of Greek air, the surrounding flora, and the smoke is pleasant in a very “look where I am” kind of way, and it has actually become something of a comfort as I approach cafes throughout the city.  Upon reaching the entrance to the Acropolis, I once again obtained a discounted student ticket (they’re fans of learning here) I headed up onto the Acropolis.

How do I any justice describing the first time I roam a masterpiece of human achievement that I for so many years have learned about from books, slideshows and websites?  How do I describe the flurry of activity in my brain as I tried to process the incredible history and all that has passed through the columns of the Propylaea, as I thought of the feet of amazing people, both ancient and modern, who have walked the same paths, overturned the same stones, took in the same views, maybe even thought the same things while looking at those amazing monuments?

I walked in a stupor, barely aware of the reality that I was fulfilling one of my dreams of looking upon the Porch of Maidens with my own eyes.  Looking up at the frieze of the Parthenon, seeing the sculptures that sit there to this day, created an emotion of profoundly experiencing history that I’ve felt only a number of times.  The views from the little lookout at the I lost track of how long I spent up on the Acropolis, but I wanted to take my time soaking it all in.

Eventually I worked my way down from the summit, pausing occasionally to ask a fellow tourist to take my picture, and I ended up perched on a rock on the Aeropagus, looking up at where I was just standing.  The weather was incredible: blue skies, warm (but not deathly so) temperature, and clear, brilliant sunshine.  After a short perch session, I walked down toward the Acropolis museum, past the Filopapau Hill, to catch the tour bus to travel over to the National Gardens and the Temple of Olympian Zeus.  I did not end up going in the Museum on this particular trip, figuring I’d rather spend the day outdoors and wanting to dedicate a good amount of time to perusing the museum’s collection.  When I caught the bus, it drove me back past where I’d just walked, but seeing the same streets from the top deck of a bus puts things into another light, and with the wind blowing and hearing the chattering of a Midwestern family two rows behind me, everything was a-okay in the world at that particular moment.  I treasure those moments that I find complete contentment, no matter how fleeting they may be.  In this case, the contentment lasted multiple city blocks as we made our way toward the National Gardens.

I’ll take a break here and show some pictures so your poor eyes can recover.

Continuing, now:

I stayed plugged into the bus tour as we passed Hadrian’s Gate, the entrance to the gardens, the Benaki Museum and the embassies that share the same street (the French Embassy is absolutely gorgeous), the Panathenaic Stadium (the place of rebirth of the modern Olympics), and past the Zappion complex and the famous tennis courts of Athens (which I had no idea existed, but a member of which was none other than Mr. Winston Churchill himself.  I’m still trying to picture “Pug” playing tennis…).

I alighted at the National Gardens stop, bought myself an ice-cold Brisk, and walked toward the temple of Zeus.  As sparse as the site is, I still think it was #2 on my list of things I saw that day.  The massive scale of those beautiful columns, standing alone in the large empty plain added to the grandeur and mystery, if you will, of the place.  I found an isolated bench along the wall and took it all in, taking a breather and enjoying the breeze that had picked up in the afternoon.  The lighting was perfect for pictures, yet despite this I found that I was still unable to do the ruins photographic justice.  At the perimeter of the site, as I continued walking, I found a Roman bath with some of its original mosaic intact.  The geek in me flipped, knowing that I was standing so close to authentic artisanship in situ.  Recovering, I continued on to the National Gardens and the Zappion.

The approach to the Zappion, which was built by the Zappo brothers under commission for the first modern Olympics in Athens, put me in the mind of an English estate with broad pebbled walkways and a large fountain and pristine gardening.  I sat on the steps for a while, enjoying the shade and breeze, then eventually walked into the heart of the gardens, enjoying the birds and trees.  I stopped for a break under a large tree and just as I was preparing to continue on my way, a man from Pakistan approached and asked if he could sit next to me and talk because I was alone and he thought I might want some company.  His offer made me tear up a bit, because I had been feeling lonely that day, so I assented, saying that I would have to excuse myself in a few minutes to meet someone for drinks in the Plaka (lies…).  The man, who was actually pretty good with English, proceeded to explain how he loves Greek food and has done a thorough search along the coast for the best, most affordable seafood in Attika.  About the time he was offering to take me to a place sometime, I decided that I didn’t want to keep my friend (male, of course) waiting too long, so I had to excuse myself.  The quick interaction was refreshing though, and exiting the gardens I plunged my way headfirst into the tourist fray once again.

As I was walking toward the Plaka, I heard chanting coming from a nearby church, right across from Hadrian’s Arch.  Feeling a pull that only calls to prayer exert on me, I walked to the square where the Orthodox church was settled and sat outside, not wanting to interrupt what I was sure was a Vespers service.  All I wanted to do was listen, so, as strange as I looked sitting on the ground across from the church entrance, I was content and turned my brain off, just listening to the chanting.

Eventually I broke from the trance and continued on my search for the same square where Dr. Z, Eleni and I had eaten my first night in Athens.  I wanted something at least somewhat familiar, so I worked my way to where I think the streets Kidathineon and Farmaki meet, let myself be guided to an outdoor table in a comfy chair, and ordered myself a beer, bread and olive paste, and some moussaka.

Before my food came out, a loud threesome of Texans approached the café, and, noticing me sitting alone, invited me to join them at their table for four.  Had it been someone other than these fellas, I would have joined, but my hackles immediately went up as they drew near.  They gave off Yeehaw vibes, and I didn’t want any part of it.  Pretending I didn’t speak English (I know, smooth move, but I panicked!) they let me alone and proceeded to prove me right.  Slinging “gay” comments, discussing their bench weight bests, and discussing a “Sarah” who, apparently, is well stocked in the bust region, these guys made me glad to be by my onesy.  I did get somewhat lonely watching families of four across from me eating together, but all in all I was content to sit and people watch and eat some incredible Greek food.

After a leisurely meal, I worked my way back past all the shops and tabernas, arriving eventually at the Akropolis Metro station and took a quick ride back to Metaxourgio station.  It was nice to be back on a metro (my first since London), which I’m sure is a sentence that isn’t often said.  But the rocking to and fro of the underground line brings back memories of adventure and belonging in my beloved London.  I arrived safely at my hotel and tucked into bed, having to get some sleep for an early rising to return to Elefsina.

The next day, back in Elefsina, after an uneventful morning of checking out and traveling by bus, I met Elena, one of my coworkers at the IHC, and we traveled to the archaeological site to meet a group touring the site.  All Elena knew was that it was a group of men from a fraternity that were traveling through Greece, stopping at Elefsina for the morning.  We arrived at the site (more on the site later) and walked up to the museum to meet them and give the group a kind of rundown of what it was exactly the IHC does.  Lo and behold, when we reach the courtyard, I see that all the guys are SigEp’s, a fraternity that had a chapter at LMU and that was moderated by none other that Fr. Fulco, my archaeology professor.  It goes without saying that I was happy to see anything reminiscent of LMU and Fr. Fulco, and talked with all the guys that approached me to ask if I knew So-and-so from the LMU chapter.  After a quick semi-interview process about our job/internship, the boys were carted off on a tour bus and Elena and I stopped in at a café across from the site’s entrance and enjoyed a kafe frappe.

Since then I’ve been working on the third installation of the IHC’s newsletter, creating a new template for the publication and contacting all the members for submissions and pictures.  I’m excited to see how this project turns out.  It will be interesting pulling feedback from multiple sources that could very possibly all have their own vision of what this newsletter should look like.  Not only is this fun for me because I get to use my knack for artistic design, but it’s a chance to leave a lasting, physical mark of my time with the IHC.  The final product, I hope, will be something I will be proud to have my name connected to.

I look forward, in the meantime, to getting back into Athens and exploring other sights of the city, as well as hitting museums like the Benaki, Byzantine, Archaeological, and possibly the National Gallery.

More to come very soon!

Enjoy the photos!

The Battle of Ferrara

It is the little victories in life that are the sweetest.

Since my apartment has literally no ventilation, and Friday was the third day in a row that the temperature reached and stayed in the 90s, I decided to pick up a fan for my room so that I would be able to breath while sleeping.

I brought it home on my way back from the office, and set up shop in my room.  Sweating as soon as I stepped into the apartment, the task of assembling a fan seemed daunting, but I soldiered on, knowing that the reward would come in the form of air being blasted into my face.

The fan itself came in more parts than I thought a fan would ever need, and the instructions were all in scrunched, smeared Greek. After fashioning a screwdriver out of my Swiss army knife-esque blades, and only cutting myself twice (including once on my foot…?), I defeated the Ferrara floor fan and forced it into cooperation.

Windy Win.

I took some pictures to commemorate the momentous occasion. Feel free to whoop in celebration.

It’s all Greek to me

I’m sorry, I couldn’t help myself with the pun.  It does, however, quite eloquently describe how I’m feeling right about now.

It is my 3rd day here in Greece, and the heat wave that just so happened to arrive the same day I did is just starting to die down. A breeze, albeit a warm one, has been blowing today, and the temperature is down to a pleasant(?) 88 degrees, rather than yesterday’s 100. I’ve decided on my route of choice to work as well. It takes me down one of the main roads with shops on the homestretch I walk right past the archaeological site, which, from the walkway, looks like a jumble of marble ruins on a hillside, overgrown by dry brush. Yet it demands a kind of awe each time I walk by. I will post pictures of my walk to work at a later time.

Wednesday afternoon was a whirlwind of plans made at the last minute, and while my head is still spinning from the activity, it was a wonderful introduction to my summer in Greece. While Elena, my coworker, and I were at the office working, I talked to Dr. Z who said that she was going to the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a Roman theatre that was built at the foot of the Acropolis, to see a Japanese Noh performance.  I was of course game, so I drove with Elena into Athens and she dropped me off at the Zacharia family’s home in the city.  We took a taxi into the center of town and walked toward the Acropolis through winding streets bordered by incredible homes with Mediterranean shutters and ivy.  We made our way to the pedestrian path that leads up towards the Acropolis and the museum, all the while walking along the Acropolis itself.  I don’t think it’s sunk in yet that I was actually looking at the real deal, the Acropolis I’ve studied and read so much about.

The Odeon is situated at the base of the Acropolis, and the backdrop of the stage is an ancient wall with arches and windows.  The performance was interesting, like nothing I’d ever seen before.  The play was put on as a part of the Athens & Epidaurus Festival which just started and showcases theatre, music, art and “spectacle”.  Apparently Noh theatre is the closest art form to ancient tragedy that exists today and has been practiced since the 14th century.  It was interesting to hear the chanting and mantra-like forms of the theatre and imagine that this was what ancient theatre would have sounded like and been performed.  And what a way to kick off my time in Athens! Imagine, my first day, seeing a play at the base of the Acropolis! Welcome to Greece, indeed.

After the performance, Dr. Zacharia and I met up with her very good friend Eleni (I hope I spelled that right) and got a late meal at an incredible outdoor cafe.  After a rambling walk down the pedestrian way, we worked out way into an open square that reminded me of New Orleans, actually, because of the outdoor cafes and the large trees lit from underneath with lanterns.  I’m not sure what I ate, but it was all incredible.  As you know, I have no problem sampling local fare, and it only consistently pays off for me. White wine and water have never been so refreshing, either. Over the meal, Dr. Z and Eleni went over some necessary vocabulary quickly. For some reason, I can never remember the word for “thank you”. I mean, it’s there, in my head, ready to go, but when I actually have to say it, it comes out as a garbled mess. (It’s pronounced “efharisto” by the way.)  We finished our meal around 1 am (so Mediterranean, I love it) and then took a taxi back to Dr. Z’s place.

I actually slept well that night, probably because I wasn’t being asphyxiated by lack of ventilation (such as I was last night in my apartment…on my “To Buy” list, a fan is #1).  Dr. Zacharia, her father and I went out for a lovely lunch the next day at a restaurant hidden on a street corner not far from their house.  Once again, not sure what I ate, I think it was risotto stuffed tomatoes, but being adventurous paid off yet again.  We talked about family, serving in Africa, museums, my future (of course) and enjoyed a great meal.  My favorite part was probably the “palette cleanser” they served us after our meal.  Think of a melon margarita, where tequila is substituted with lime juice and blended cold, and that should give you an accurate idea. So cool, fresh and just a happy taste, if you can taste happy.

After lunch came my biggest adventure yet.

There was a strike yesterday on the Metro because of issues with the management of the workers.  So, because of this, I had to take a taxi to a bus stop that where the bus to Elefsina stopped.  Dr. Z and her father dropped me off in front of the “Greek Pentagon” as Dr. Z calls it and popped me in a taxi and told the driver where I needed to go.  It’s not uncommon to share taxis in Greece, so when I got in the cab there was already a passenger in the front seat.  She and the driver were listening to the Greece/Nigeria game on the radio, and although I couldn’t understand what was said, I surmised that the Greeks were doing well. Although the ride was long, the ride was only about $12 and dropped me just where I needed to be. I then had 30 minutes to wait for the next bus, and the station had a wonderful view of the Acropolis, so I sat on a wall with a water bottle and enjoyed the view.  I hopped on a bus towards Megara, hoping that it was indeed the correct one, and took a quick ride along the coast to Elefsina.  I only barely recognized my stop in Elefsina, and then found my way directly home, first try. Booya. I was exhausted emotionally and from the heat, but I made my way to the office anyway because I wanted to catch up on some work in the office (which also happens to be the only place I have internet connection).

After an hour or two of work, I stopped on my way home in a cafe to watch some of the France/Mexico WC game, and then stopped in at a store to buy some Mythos beer, pistachios and some more bread.  The solitude, as I predicted, is definitely the most taxing thing that I’m having to deal with right now.  I’ve never lived alone before, and to do so in a place that I’m completely unfamiliar with and that has a different language is challenging.  Combine that with heat exhaustion in my apartment and noisy neighbors, as well as the dregs of jetlag, and I am one unhappy camper. I’m hoping this will get better, that I’ll be able to spend time with the people I work with, but I also know that I need to soldier on and do everyone proud. Next week will be busier and I’ll have more work to do.  I’ll also start exploring more, probably making my way to the water. I think some swimming will rejuvenate me.

Until the next update, here are a few photos to hold you over. Enjoy!

A return to adventure

Hello, all.

Yes, I have returned to my blogging. But only because I just happen to be living in Greece for the summer. Get ready for photos and observations, emotions and recommendations.

To begin:

As I write this I am sitting on the porch of what I will call my Grecian abode for the next six weeks.  It’s finally started cooling down after a day that was measuring up at 40 degrees C (that’s about 98 degrees F), and I am sitting in the warm breeze that is blowing past my third-storey balcony.  I gave into the jetlag and the 20 hours of travel and took a nap, breaking my own Beat-the-Jetlag rules, but woke up sweating 20 minutes later and discovered it is actually much cooler outside than in my single bedroom studio-esque dwelling in Eleusina.

It is a charmingly humble abode, and comes with a couch and armchair, a small desk/dining room table, two desk chairs, a single bed, closet space, and a bathroom.  The floors are all marbled/tiled, and there are two sets of double doors opening onto a balcony that runs along each level of the building. In the kitchen is a small tub for washing, a HotShot kettle, hearkening back to its distant cousin in the Manson Place flat, a random assortment of cutlery and dishware, and a portable burner that is to be hooked to a small petrol tank, like one would find among one’s camping equipment.  My mini fridge is situated in my living room, and is already stocked (after a quick trip to the grocer’s down the main street) with yogurt, feta, melon and jams.  The landlady (I assume) keeps finches at the top of the stairwell and they, along with the wild birds in the surrounding trees, keep up an echoing symphony that reverberates throughout the main hall of the building.

It’s simple, but all I need. It’s my first time “living alone” and I just happen to be doing it in what began as an ancient city that cropped up around one of the most important religious sites in ancient Greece…no biggy.  I’ve had multiple reliable sources continually exclaim how great Greece and especially Athens are, which makes me even more excited to see what they have to offer.

The solitude will be the biggest challenge for me, I think.  Before now, whenever I’ve had to adapt to a new place, I’ve had companions.  Now, it’s just me.  I have Dr. Z around, and will gladly make friends with the others at the IHC, but at the end of each day, I come home to me alone. I do have the occasional “Dexter” or “Burn Notice” fix to look forward to, but mostly it will be just me in my third floor apartment at night.  Exciting, yet daunting. Ah, Big Girl life.  Luckily there is the constant noise of a crowded neighborhood just outside my windows, so that will help add life and animation.  Like now, there are three or four dogs trying to outdo each other in echoing barks- – the yippy one is winning.

Flying into Athens today was a treat: it was about 14:00, so the sun was out in full force, highlighting the coasts of the islands we flew over, and making the turquoise shallows around the smaller outlets shimmer as the postcard perfect ships sailed in their harbors.  I counted five cruise ships at one point, leaving a beautiful port that I think, although I’m not at all sure, was NW from the Athens airport.  I spotted the runway from the air and watched the surrounding area for the Acropolis as we circled around for a landing. I couldn’t find the hilltop, but I didn’t know where to look exactly. I will be making a trip out there later this week with Dr. Z, so I’ll get up close and personal with some ancient history. Excited!

It is just reaching dusk now, and the bells from a local church are echoing off the rooftops that make up my view as I sit here.  I will explore my neighborhood tomorrow in a twofold attempt to acquaint myself with the space and map out a proper running route in the area. If it’s going to stay this warm (which is quite probably the case), I’ll have to make an effort to run early, before the heat of the day sets in.

Today (and yesterday? I can’t keep my days straight) was filled with fake airport air, terrible airline food (I am still unsure of what it was exactly that I ate for dinner last night with AmAir), cramped quarters, and striking French air control operators.  I had the window seat as we flew into London this morning, and I must admit, if I didn’t think both my parents and Dr. Zacharia would hunt me down if I failed to make my flight to Athens and just stayed in London, I would’ve been on the Piccadilly faster than you could say, “Mind the gap.”  I looked down through my window and a clearing in the clouds and watched as a castle came into view. Oh, England, how regal you are, with your rolling green hills and your driving on the wrong side of the road.  Going through security check in Terminal 5 reminded me of all the adventures that began there while I was studying abroad. You’ve been surprisingly good to me, Heathrow. That is, until today, when my baggage failed to make it on my flight to Athens with me and has yet to be delivered to me at my new digs.  And of course, just as I write that, my baggage pulls up accompanied by a very large Greek man. Wunderbar. Time to set up camp—I shall continue later.

I have now made this apartment mine.  Most obvious sign of the takeover: two scarves hanging on the wall.  That, and currently Elvis is rocking the joint.  I wonder what my Greek neighbors think of me as they hear “All Shook Up” sounding from their neighbor’s sitting room.  I am ready to begin my adventure in Greece tomorrow.  I’m looking forward to starting the projects the IHC wants me to complete and to visiting the archaeological site, which is honestly two blocks away from the IHC office.

The heat and jetlag are starting to take over again, so I think I’m going to end this first “episode” here: hopeful for the adventures that are sure to come in the next few weeks, and excited to see what memories I will make in good ol’ Hellas.